Taormina, Sicily

Taormina, a nineteenth century haunt of the English Aristocracy, has somtimes been called the Sicilian Monte Carlo, without the casinos. It has long been Sicily's most famous resort town, and it was here in Taormina that a self exiled D. H. Lawrence was inspired to write Lady Chatterly's Lover, one of the most passionate and erotic love stories of its era. Taormina has endlessly winding medieval streets and tiny passages, each with its own secrets. There are great restaurants, cafes and ice cream bars, some of which are secluded gardens hidden by stone walls. Others are set on terraces overlooking the coast, or in more public but equally pleasant squares. While Taormina is beautiful by day, in the evenings it is enchanting. One can stroll the illuminated streets, or enjoy a fabulous view of the coast over dinner. You may even be lucky enough to see the fires of Mount Etna as the molten lava flows along the snow-covered slopes of the greatest natural wonder in Europe, leaving steam and light in its wake. There are archeological monuments and medieval homes within the stone walls of Taormina such as Palazzo Santo Stefano. Magnificent views of the sea complete a most outstanding picture. The most famous view is overlooking the Greco-Roman amphitheatre, one of Sicily's largest, again with Mount Etna in the background.

If you are looking for someplace to glimpse Sicily's beauty and history from several different angles, then Taormina is the place to go. The city is located on a plateau below Mount Tauro, for which Taormina is named. Here there are the ruins of two medieval fortresses. The anchient Greek splendor, medieval charm, and gorgous views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Coast will give you a lasting impression, and will make you want to one day go back to visit.

Taormina was settled by the people of nearby Naxos, an older Greek settlement, around 395 BC. These people had fled the tyranny of Dionysius the Elder, who eventually conquered Taormina anyway in 392 BC. In 358 BC the city was renamed Tauromenion and was very importnat in the regional politics for the next two centuries.

The city supported Pyrrhus, King of Epirus, against Syracuse in 278 BC. It was from Taormina that he conducted his Sicilian campaign witht the aid of at least ten thousand troops. Yet, Taormina was one of the first cities to support Rome during the Punic Wars. Eventually the city was taken back by Eunus during a slave revolt, and when the Romans finally occupied Taormina they massacred thousands of slaves.

Taormina flourished under Julius Ceasar, but suffered under Octavian. Octavian retalianted against the city for its support of Pompey by expelling most of the inhabitants, and gave their homes to Roman soldiers. The Romans prospered in Taormina.

Ovid wrote of the "sweet mullet and tender eel' of the waters surrounding Taormina. In the first century Pliny the Elder praised the wines of Taormina. The city's splendor, still evident today, survived the fall of the Roman Empire, but the city's importance diminished. The "Saracen" castle on top of Mount Tauro was probably built by the Saracens on a older Byzantine sturcture, and was later enlarged by the Normans. Another fortress stood on even higher ground in the Castelmola district. Taormina's medieval and ancient city walls still remain very much intact in the old city.

Though it is not very high above sea level, the city seems much higher. The Greek amphithestre was built in the third century, and was later expanded by the Romans, who enlarged the stage and added a partial roof, which no longer exists.Reserved seating existed even in Greek times. A seat bears the name of Philistide, wife of Heron II of Syracuse. The world famous view of Mout Etna and the sea beyond the theatre is absolutely breathtaking. The theatre is still used during the summer for dramatic performances, and seasons are alternated with perfomances at Segesta, Sicily's other laarge Greek amphitheatre.

The odeon, a much smaller Roman theatre, is located near the Church of Saint Catherine (Santa Caterina), which obscures it. On the site of Saint Pancras Church, just beyond Porta Messina (The Messina Gate) outside the medieval city walls, was a temple dedicated to Zeus. Saint Pancras is believed to have been an early priest or bishop of Taormina's Christian community. Another eastern Sicilian example of the phenomenon of temples being converted to churches with the introduction of Christianity is the cathedral of Syracuse.

Indications of Taormina's ancient street plan are evident, and Roman mosaic floors have been found in the ancient villas. Even Palazzo Corvaia, built during the foutheenth century, was constructed on Roman foundations. Taormina has a very good archeological museum near the amphitheatre, but many of the significant finds from Taormina are housed elsewhere.

Taormina's streets, churches and residences retain much of their medieval flavor. The city's "Duomo" is not actually a cathedral as the name implies, but this Norman-Arab church built over an earlier Paleo Christian structure dates from the twelfth century. The Badia Vecchia (Old Abbey) is a fourteenth century construction. A Medieval Byzantine (Orthodox) mosaic icon of the Theotokos (Mother of God) is perfectly preserved in the archway passage under the clock tower along Corso Umberto I leading into Piazza 9 Aprile. There has been much British presence in Taormina, and a charming Anglican Church can be found there. D. H. Lawrence (1865-1930) lived nearby, and based several of his stories on local events.

The larger castle in the Castelmola district overlooks the city. It affords a spectacular view, but is somewhat distant from Taormina and not well preserved.

Several beaches are close by, and one can also take an excursion to Mount Etna. The scenic Alcantra Gorge is located about twenty minutes south and west of Taormina on the Alcantara River. Volcanic activity created the beautiful basalt formation.

There are many restaurnats that offer seafood and other cusine. Taormina's main streets are full of places to buy craft items, especially fashion, jewelry, ceramics, mosaics, puppets and porcelain dolls. While few of these things are actually made in Taormina, they are of the higest quality. The beach at Giardini-Naxos is a few kilometers away and there are plenty hotels in the area. A funicular cableway connects the old town to coastal Mazzaro below. There is a train stationat Giardini nearby, but it is easier to reach Taormina by exspress bus from Catania and the airport.You'll have to park your car outside of town.Taormina holds a film festival, which attracts talent like Tom Cruise and Hugh Grant, and concert series each summer.

This is a religious building in Taormina.

A creche setting. These can often be found at other than Christmas time.

Nativity Scenes are also often seen.

Climbing up the hill.

Cyclamen on an upstairs windowsill.

Beautiful balconies covered with flowers

Even the Monday Morning wash has a patron saint.

This show's Taormina's Train station-but look at the view, too.

View of Taormina and the hill.

Soldiers facing the castle high up on the top of the hill.

Ceramic guard lions are on all the walls

An intricate fountain in Taormina.

A view of teh entire fountain.

The Merhorse Fountain

Second story flower garden.

Ceramic shops are everywhere in Taormina.

The Greek Theatre In Taormina.

Behind the Stage of the Greek Theater.

Looking through the stage to the seating area of the Greek Theatre.

More of the seating of the Greek Threater.

The mountain above Taormina.

A view of Mount Etna from Taormina.

Another view of Mount Etna from Taormina.

Yet another viesw of Mount Etna from Taormina.

A lush Garden in Taormina

Main entrance to Taormina. I think this is called the Messina GAte.

A side street in Taormina

Pottery jars on the stairs in Taormina

Another side street in Taormina

The Stage of the Greek Amphitheater